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I’m Home in the US

10-May-08

I’m home in the US now. Arrived here on Monday. Spent some time in central PA. Currently in Beaufort, SC. Heading up the coast to Charleston in a few minutes. Visits to NYC and DC will come next.

Friends here in the US: email me for my local mobile number.

Posting here will be light for the time being, but I’ll be sending brief dispatches to Twitter.

For now, I can say this: I just had a quintessential South Carolina Lowcountry meal of fried chicken, okra, mac and cheese, banana pudding, and sweet tea.

It’s good to be home.

Stay tuned, mis amigos.

Thailand for Inexperienced Travelers

08-May-08

Bangkok's Khao San Road Goes Upscale [NY Times illustration]

Over at the New York Times’s Travel Q&A Blog, David G. Allan recently pointed out some resources for two inexperienced travelers coming to Thailand. I was happy to see that my Khao San Road story was among the highlighted articles.

Q
I am 18 and not a terribly experienced traveler. I have traveled in the United States, Spain and Portugal. This May a friend and I are braving our way to Thailand. The tickets have been purchased, but the itinerary is not yet set, and we have our anxieties, as do our mothers. Do you have any advice on where to go? We are doing the trip on a budget, and we are looking for a very cultural, and exciting, experience.

Polly Peterson,
Olympia, Wash.

A
Thailand is quite safe in terms of crime, very inexpensive and culturally exciting. You should have an experience that eases your (and your mothers’) anxiety by sticking to well-worn travel paths yet avoiding any elements that cater to foreign tastes in illicit sex or drugs (which is strictly prosecuted).

You will no doubt fly into Bangkok, and you should stay long enough to visit such sites as the Grand Palace and Wat Arun and take a boat ride along the Chao Phraya. If you want to meet fellow backpackers, you might explore Khao San Road as Newley Purnell did in “A Hippie Haven Goes Upscale” (Aug. 19, 2007). For good (and inexpensive) food options, read “Street Smarts in Bangkok” (Jan. 6, 2008) by Joshua Kurlantzick, and for a glimpse into the lives of the city’s up-and-coming artists, read “To Be Young and Hip in Bangkok,” by Matt Gross (Nov. 20, 2005)…

There’s more info in the complete blog post.

Myanmar Cyclone: Over 22,000 Dead and 41,000 Missing

07-May-08

Myanmar Cyclone [NY Times Graphic]

CNN: “Myanmar cyclone survivors desperate for aid”

More than 22,000 killed and 41,000 missing, Myanmar radio reports
Survivor tells how wall of water left bodies in trees, bushes and streams
U.N. has started getting food aid but so far it is only the first step of huge job
U.S. President George Bush says Navy is ready to help if asked

NY Times: “The Cyclone’s Wake, Seen in Taxi Headlights”

Some firsthand impressions, including messages from Westerners who were in Myanmar when the devastating storm struck over the weekend.

AP: “Myanmar cyclone death toll soars past 22,000: state radio”

The cyclone death toll soared above 22,000 on Tuesday and more than 41,000 others were missing as foreign countries mobilized to rush in aid after the country’s deadliest storm on record, state radio reported.

Up to 1 million people may be homeless after Cyclone Nargis hit the Southeast Asian nation, also known as Burma, early Saturday. Some villages have been almost totally eradicated and vast rice-growing areas are wiped out, the World Food Program said.

AFP: “Aid workers race to reach Myanmar cyclone victims”

Aid workers battled Wednesday to get food and water to desperate cyclone survivors in Myanmar, whose government is under fire after more than 22,000 people died in one of Asia’s worst natural disasters.

More than 41,000 people are also missing, but the United Nations said foreign staff were still awaiting visas from the secretive military regime — which said outside aid workers needed to “negotiate” to enter the country.

Bangkok Pundit has more information.

Thailand Bids Farewell to the Telegraph

01-May-08

Speaking of things slipping into extinction, Thailand has now discontinued use of its telegraph service.

Bangkok Post: “Telegraph service closes after 133 years”

After 133 years, the curtain came down on the telegraph service yesterday in a ceremony which saw several thousand people bid it farewell.

”The last chapter of 133 years of the Thai telegraph will be in the memory of Thais forever,” was the last message sent by telegraph, by Information and Communications Technology Minister Mun Patanotai from the General Post Office.

It was sent to 40,000 people who had reserved a final telegram, according to the Thai News Agency.

On the final day parents, teenagers, the elderly and first-time users packed the headquarters of Thailand Post Plc in Bang Rak district, waiting for hours to send final telegrams to friends, family and loved ones, and to buy souvenirs.

The number of telegrams sent across the country in the final week of the service, which began 133 years ago with a morse key and ended with the teleprinter, rose to 50,000 _ the total usually sent in six months.

The public enthusiasm was overwhelming, said Wiboon Sereechaiporn, assistant vice-president of the corporate and marketing communications department.

”It is in the character of Thais to often feel regret when things that once belonged to them leave them for good.” Among those turning up on the final day was Krisada Limthongtip, 28, who sent telegrams to his friends and family members.

”It is my first and last time for telegrams,” said Mr Krisada as his fingers constantly punched the keyboard of his smart phone.

”I don’t need to use it. I email and skype. But I came here today to soak up the [nostalgic] feeling,” he said.

Actor Supravat Pattamasuit was also at the General Post Office.

”It is a walk down memory lane and I feel nostalgic. I wish this service would remain. But the world changes,” said the 69-year-old, who sent his message saying ”Long Live the King” by telegraph to Chitralada Palace.

The service peaked in 1995, when 12 million telegrams were sent across the country. Last year, only 600,000 telegrams were sent, most of them by commercial banks and debt-collecting agencies.

Thailand Post finally terminated the service at 8pm after shouldering a loss of 300 million baht a year for five consecutive years.

About 1,200 telegraph service staff will be transferred to new positions.

As the telegraph becomes history, Thailand Post officials and a member of the National Telecommunication Commission (NTC) remain optimistic that letters will not be next to succumb to speedy communications technology like the internet.

”We once feared letters would disappear when there were telephones. But this form of communication stays and even becomes more valuable in terms of sentimental value,” said NTC commissioner Sethaporn Cusripituck.

”We are not worried. People may send emails but the commercial sector still use mail for their business,” Mr Wiboon said. ”People send more postcards. Letters are now special occasions.”

(Emphasis mine.)

Tough day to be a first-time telegraph user. :-)

America’s Disappearing Foods

01-May-08

America's Disappearing Foods [NYT Infographic]

Don’t miss this revealing New York Times infographic about America’s disappearing foods. (It will truly be a sad day when the Carolina northern flying squirrel goes the way of the dodo.)

From the article: “An Unlikely Way to Save a Species: Serve It for Dinner.”

Top Thailand Blogs

29-Apr-08

"Do I need to remind you that I have a huge Internet following?"

The Lost Boy has put together a collection of the top 100 Thailand blogs. Newley.com is currently in 15th, while 2Bangkok is justifiably in the top slot, with Bangkok Pundit in 3rd.

Two of my favorite blogs from the region are missing, though: consummate food blogger/photog Austin Bush and Southeast Asia news blog New Mandala.

(Cartoon from the New Yorker, via Scribbling.net.)

UPDATE: Another notable absence is the excellent Wise Kwai’s Thai Film Journal. Sample can’t-miss post: a sneak preview of a zany Thai action flick in which a giant Australian dude living in Bangkok is transformed from pushover to super-strength action hero by…wait for it…a particularly fiery bowl of one of my favorite Thai foods.

New Rules for Expats in China

24-Apr-08

Here’s a snip from an Andrew Jacobs story in today’s IHT:

In little more than 100 days, this city will open its arms to an unprecedented deluge of foreigners, many of whom will be pleasantly surprised by the dizzying array of designer boutiques, painfully hip martini bars and libertine pastimes not readily associated with an authoritarian, communist country.

But just as Beijing is promising to welcome 1.5 million visitors to the Olympic Games with newfound openness, public security officials are seeking to tighten controls over daily life, including new visa restrictions that are causing mounting anxiety among the 250,000 foreign citizens who have settled in the capital in recent years. The rules, which were introduced last week with no warning and little explanation, limit new visas to 30 days, making it difficult, if not impossible, for long-term residents to hold down jobs and maintain uncomplicated lives. The restrictions are also infuriating business leaders in Hong Kong who have become used to crossing the border with ease.

“I can’t begin to explain how serious this is going to be,” said Richard Vuylsteke, president of the American Chamber of Commerce in Hong Kong. “A barrier like this is going to have a real ripple effect on business.”

(Emphasis mine.)

Breaking Travel News from The Onion

23-Apr-08

The Onion: "Southwest Airlines Now Taking Passengers To Destinations By Shuttle Bus"

The Onion: “Southwest Airlines Now Taking Passengers To Destinations By Shuttle Bus”

DALLAS—In what the company is calling a “bold new leap” in comfort, convenience and overall quality of travel, Southwest Airlines announced Monday that it would be replacing its entire fleet of passenger jets and planes with daily shuttle buses.

The shuttle buses, which will depart from airport runways to over 200 destinations nationwide, represent a major breakthrough in commercial aviation.

“The future is now,” announced Southwest CEO Gary Kelly, gesturing to a 30-foot bus painted in the company’s signature red, yellow, and blue. “With these amazing new buses, traveling from New York to Los Angeles takes as little as three days. That’s less than half the time it took passengers to get there on our old planes.”

Equipped with a 70-gallon tank and a four-stroke engine capable of speeds up to 60 miles per hour, the innovative buses will reportedly reduce travel time by 75 percent on average. In addition, cushioned plastic seats and easy-to-hold metal poles will present passengers with a level of comfort never before experienced on Southwest flights.

(Via World Hum.)

News from Ecuador

21-Apr-08

Eloy Alfaro Air Base in Manta, Ecuador

There’s been a lot of news coming out of Ecuador recently. To wit:

  • Simon Romero, in the New York Times:
    “Ecuador’s Leader Purges Military and Moves to Expel American Base”:

    MANTA, Ecuador — Chafing at ties between American intelligence agencies and Ecuadorean military officials, President Rafael Correa is purging the armed forces of top commanders and pressing ahead with plans to cast out more than 100 members of the American military from an air base here in this coastal city.

    Mr. Correa — who this month dismissed his defense minister, army chief of intelligence and commanders of the army, air force and joint chiefs — said that Ecuador’s intelligence systems were “totally infiltrated and subjugated to the C.I.A.” He accused senior military officials of sharing intelligence with Colombia, the Bush administration’s top ally in Latin America.

    The dismissals point to a willingness by Mr. Correa, an ally of President Hugo Chávez of Venezuela, to aggressively confront Ecuador’s military, a bastion of political and economic power in this coup-prone country of 14 million people. Mr. Correa’s moves mark a clear break with his predecessors, illustrating his wager that Ecuador’s institutions may finally be resilient enough to carry out such changes after more than a decade of political upheaval.

    The gambit also poses a clear challenge to the United States. For nearly a decade, the base here in Manta has been the most prominent American military outpost in South America and an important facet of the United States’ drug-fighting efforts. Some 100 antinarcotics flights leave here each month to survey the Pacific in an elaborate cat-and-mouse game with drug traffickers bound for the United States.

    But many Ecuadoreans have chafed at the American presence and the perceived challenge to the country’s sovereignty, and Mr. Correa promised during his campaign in 2006 to close the outpost.

    (Emphasis mine.)

  • AP (video news report):
    “Fireworks Burn Ecuador Night Club, Kill 14″ in Quito.

  • AFP:
    “Five Britons killed in Ecuador bus crash” between Quito and the coastal town of Puerto Lopez.

    Previous Ecuador posts on newley.com:

  • “Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, and…Thailand?”
  • “Ecuador’s President Wants Military Base in Miami”
  • “Ecuador: “Pay us not to drill for oil”
  • Bangkok By the Numbers: Family Visit 2008, Early Numerical Status Report

    16-Apr-08

    Grand Palace, Bangkok [NOT MY IMAGE]

    My mom and step-dad arrived in Bangkok yesterday for a visit from the US. Here’s how their visit has shaped up, numbers-wise, so far:

    Thai Foot Massages

  • Hour-long Thai foot massages enjoyed in the last 24 hours: 2
  • Combined hours of full-body massages planned for them for tomorrow: 4

    Thai Cuisine Consumed

  • Approximate number of individual Thai dishes we have consumed since they arrived: 13

    Kimchi Consumption Requests Made By Me

  • Times I asked my mom to try the particularly pungent kimchi during dinner at a Korean restaurant tonight: 7
  • Number of times she obliged: 0
  • Plates on our table at one point during said dinner: 19

    Bowls of Lot Chong Devoured

  • Bowls of lot chong (green “worms” made of sticky rice flour in coconut milk) scarfed down at lunch today: 1

    Shopping Achievements

  • Mobile phones purchased at MBK: 1
  • SIM cards purchased from same vendor: 1
  • Value, in Baht, of pre-paid phone card minutes purchased: 200
  • Pairs of eye glasses purchased today: 4
  • Items of clothing currently being constructed for my mom and step-dad by my favorite tailor: 13

    Songkran Soakings

  • Number of times I have been soaked to the skin by Songkran revelers since my mom and step-dad arrived: 1
  • Number of times I was soaked to the skin by Songkran revelers before they arrived: 5
  • Number of times my mom and step dad have been soaked to the skin by Songkran revelers since they arrived: 0
  • The Asus Eee PC: 10 Things You Need to Know About the World’s Coolest Gadget

    11-Apr-08

    The EEE PC

    If it keeps up, man will atrophy all his limbs but the push-button finger. — Frank Lloyd Wright

    A gave me a supremely cool gadget for Christmas: The Asus Eee PC. I’ve been using this most compelling toy subnotebook productivity tool for over three months now.

    Here are 10 things you need to know about the Asus Eee PC:

    1. The Eee PC is small. Very small. The display is just seven inches wide. Here are some pics of the Eee next to my 12-inch PowerBook. I don’t use the Eee for my everyday work. It’s too small to use as a primary work computer, but it’s great for tinkering on the Web or using while on the road.

    The EEE PC

    The EEE PC

    2. The machine is extremely lightweight. Mine weighs just two pounds. If I lived in a cool enough climate to wear a jacket, I could put the Eee in my jacket pocket. And take it places. Like to parties. And be a total dork.

    3. Combine these two points with the fact that it has a solid-state, 4 gigabyte flash drive — meaning that it has no moving internal parts — and you’ve got yourself the perfect device for staying connected on the road. I’ve used my Eee throughout Thailand and on the road in Vietnam.

    4. The Eee has some great built-in features:

    – The 4 gig drive is big enough for documents, photos, and some music. With a 1 or 2 GB thumb drive, you’ll have all the space you need.
    – It has a built-in Webcam and comes pre-loaded with Skype, so it makes a great portable videophone.
    – The battery lasts three hours or so, and the charger (pictured below) is slightly larger than a mobile phone charger.
    – It lacks, however, an internal optical drive, but I haven’t missed that.

    The EEE PC

    5. The Eee PC won’t break the bank: the 4 gig version retails for about $400 in the US, though it costs a bit less here.

    6. My Eee is black, but the device also comes in…pink. Here’s our friend’s S’s Eee. She bought it here in Bangkok when she was visiting from the US.

    The EEE PC

    7. The machine, which Internerds the world over have been lusting over for quite some time, has got an interesting history and some serious geek cred. The Eee was developed by Asustek, a Taiwanese manufacturer that decided to get into the small, inexpensive laptop game after witnessing the attention lavished upon the One Laptop Per Child project.

    8. The Eee is powered by Linux. To keep costs low, Asus developed the Eee to run on the open-source Linux operating system, instead of Windows. (If you think PCs are the true computers of the working man, then the Eee PC must be considered equally utilitarian.)

    9. One drawback: the touchpad is a bit finicky, so it really pays to buy a mouse.

    10. Oddly, the wireless connection doesn’t connect to a preferred network by default, so you should change it to connect to your home wifi signal on boot. Here’s how to make that tweak.

    Other sites that contain more Eee-related info include EeeUser.com and EeeSite.net.

    The Next Sushi

    06-Apr-08

    The Next Sushi

    Speaking of food, now that sushi has been globalized, GOOD Magazine asks: which regional dish will become the new new thing? I vote for mangosteens. Or bibimbap. Or dosas.

    (Via World Hum.)

    Austin Bush on an Extraordinary Seafood Joint in Koh Samui

    05-Apr-08

    Koh Samui Seafood [Not My Image]

    Thailand expert/foodie photog Austin Bush has this to say about Bangpo Seafood, located on the northern coast of Koh Samui:

    Throwing around superlatives can be a scary thing, but I think I’m justified in this case. I’ve been to many, many restaurants in Thailand, and have eaten some pretty amazing food, but Bangpo Seafood particularly stands out in my mind. I knew something was special about it after my first visit over a year ago, and wrote quite a few good things about it, but have always been keen to go back and see if the restaurant was really was as good as I thought.

    Well, after two recent visits, my initial impression was right, and I think Bangpo Seafood just might be my favourite restaurant in Thailand.

    Now that’s saying something.

    (Emphasis mine.) Image credit: Austin’s complete photoset.

    This American Life: The Ghost of Bobby Dunbar

    04-Apr-08

    This American Life: The Ghost of Bobby Dunbar

    Don’t miss This American Life episode 352: The Ghost of Bobby Dunbar, by reporter Tal McThenia. The show aired on March 14. From the show notes:

    In 1912 a four year-old boy named Bobby Dunbar went missing in a swamp in Louisiana. Eight months later, he was found in the hands of a wandering handyman in Mississippi. (The picture [above] was taken just days later.) In 2004, his granddaughter discovered a secret beneath the legend of her grandfather’s kidnapping, a secret whose revelation would divide her own family, bring redemption to another, and become the answer to a third family’s century-old prayer. We devote our entire episode to the story.

    Related: my favorite podcasts.

    Roger Cohen: The baton passes to Asia

    31-Mar-08

    Roger Cohen in the IHT:

    HONG KONG: It’s the end of the era of the white man.

    I know your head is spinning. The world can feel like one of those split-screen TVs with images of a suicide bombing in Baghdad flashing, and the latest awful market news coursing along the bottom, and an ad for some stool-loosening wonder drug squeezed into a corner.

    The jumble makes no sense. It just goes on, like the mindless clacking of an ice dispenser.

    On the globalized treadmill, you drop your eyes again from the screen (now showing ads for gourmet canine cuisine) to the New Yorker or Asahi Shimbun. And another bomb goes off.

    There’s a lot of noise and not much signal. Everywhere there is flux and the reaction to it: the quest, sometimes violent, for national or religious identity. These alternate faces of globalization - fluidity and tribalism - define our frontier-dissolving world.

    But in all the movement back and forth, basic things shift. The world exists in what Paul Saffo, a forecaster at Stanford University, calls “punctuated equilibrium.” Every now and again, an ice cap the size of Rhode Island breaks off.

    The breaking sound right now is that of the end of the era of the white man…

    Read the whole thing.